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Parolaccia Serves Up High-End Italian With Bistro Style

August 3, 2006

La Parolaccia, 2945 E. Broadway, 438-1235.

• Hours: 5:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday for dinner.
• Location: Located near the corner of Orizaba on Broadway in Bluff Park, next door to Toto’s Revenge. There is plenty of easy parking in the neighborhood.
• Staff/Service: The staff is enthusiastic, knowledgeable and attentive.
• Food: The menu is extensive, with something of interest for everyone.

The appetizers are nicely proportioned and well prepared. Standouts include the carciofini dorati (artichoke hearts stuffed with herbs and bread crumbs), fritto misto (calamari and shrimp in a deep-fried salty crust with spicy dipping sauce) and cozze e vongole saltate (mussels and clams in white wine, garlic, tomatoes and spices).

Pasta dishes include pomodora, tagliatelle alla Sheva (baby scallops and smoked salmon in vodka cream sauce), rigatoni Tric and Trac (Italian sausage with porcini mushrooms in sherry cream), linguine con frutti di mare, spaghetti della malafemmina (black olive, capers, artichoke hearts, and anchovies) and homemade ravioli and gnocchi.

There are veal and chicken dishes, salads and soups, as well.

• Drinks: There is an extensive wine list with plenty of Italian vintages as well as other well-chosen selections. There are wine dinners throughout the year.
• Atmosphere: The atmosphere is Italian bistro all the way. The dining room has been expanded into the adjoining space and is now quite roomy.
• The Taste: La Parolaccia has fulfilled its promise. Open just more than a year, La Parolaccia has become one of the top eateries in Long Beach. My friend, Dominic, says it is his favorite Italian eatery since Bacchus closed. Everyone we’ve recommended La Parolaccia to has raved about it. Nick and Stephano and their staff have done a great job.

On this visit, I stopped with the family: Jennifer, her mother and her brother accompanied me for dinner to kick off the weeklong festivities culminating in Jennifer’s birthday.

We started with bruschetta and carciofini dorati. The artichoke hearts are stuffed with breadcrumbs and herbs and lightly fried. There were a half-dozen medium hearts around a mound of diced tomatoes.

They were quite tasty.

The bruschetta was perfect: toast topped with mounds of diced tomatoes, garlic, fresh basil and olive oil.

Jennifer ordered spaghetti della malafemmina and asked for a spicy rendition, which was easily accommodated. She thought it was quite good, the anchovies weren’t overpowering, and the dish exhibited a deft touch.

David sampled the swordfish special. David said the fish was buttery and light.

It was topped with chopped tomatoes, which added a festive color to the presentation. It was accompanied by roasted potatoes and mixed vegetables with onions.

Kathleen ordered the linguine mare e monti with mussels, shrimps and mushrooms in light saffron cream sauce. The aroma was tantalizing and she thought dish was excellent.

I ordered the rack of lamb special. It was a generous rack, six bones, cooked to a perfect rare topped with Gorgonzola cream.

Again it was an excellent dish, different than the usual rack presentation, but handled with a light touch so that the Gorgonzola didn’t mask the flavor of the lamb.

The dish also came with roasted potatoes and mixed vegetables.

Jennifer finished cannolli and espresso. David sampled the gelato and a coffee. It was an excellent dinner. We finished with a visit with Gary at Toto’s Revenge, looking for a wedding card and a sympathy card. Our friends Bill and Carmen are tying the knot this coming week: Congratulations and best wishes.

And, sadly, Horse has passed away. Many of you met him over the years when MaryAnn and Chris would take him for a roll in the clover. He will be missed.

• Price: Dinner for two with wine is $35 to $50, an excellent value.